DIY Floating Credenza
I guess it would be best to start off by letting anyone who's reading this know that I am by no means a pro furniture builder. Hopefully, that tidbit of information will make you even more inspired to get started on this DIY project!
The inspiration behind building this beast stemmed from not wanting to spend a fortune on something I *kind of* liked & also KS is boring so it kept me busy.
I had been on the hunt for a piece that was 9' long & was having NO luck. Especially when it came to shopping locally - the midwest has never been known for their chic beach inspired furniture...so I get it but still, it was frustrating. After several weeks of scouring the internet, I said f*ck it. We're building this thing. So for anyone else out there looking for a sign that they should give it a shot, this is it! I proooobably made 18 trips to Menards when I was making this beast and did a terrible job at keeping track of receipts - but according to the Menards site all of the lumber totals $506.92. HOW CRAZY IS THAT??
The plans were created by my husband because he's more hip with technology than I am (also he loves to be included on these projects so it was a win-win).
- Miter Saw
- Table Saw
- Pocket Hole Jig
- 1 1/4 Pocket Hole Screws
- Drawer Slide Jig
- Staple Gun & Staples
- 14" Drawer Slides (6)
- Lumber (details below)
- Wood Glue
- Paint or Stain
LUMBER FOR FRAME
- Sides: (2) 1 x 16 x 3' Poplar Board
- Corners: (2) 2 x 2 x 4' Red Oak Lumber
- Top: (3) 1 x 6 x 10' Red Oak Board
- Bottom: (3) 1 x 6 x 10' Poplar Board
- Internal Dividers: (1) 1 x 16 x 4' Poplar Board
- Divider Strips: (1) 1 x 3 x 10' Poplar Board
- Strips to hang drawer slides: (1) 1 x 3 x 4' Poplar Board
LUMBER FOR DRAWER BOX
- Sides: (2) 1 x 8 x 8' Aspen Board
- Bottom: (2) 1 x 16 x 8' & (1) 1 x 16 x 3' Edge Glued Board
- Back: (3) 1 x 4 x 6' Poplar Board
LUMBER FOR DRAWER FRONT
- Frame: (3) 1 x 4 x 12' Red Oak Board &
- Rattan: Dependent on how the manufacture makes/sells the product
- To build to top & bottom of the frame:
- In order to create a 16" surface, you will need to cut one of the Poplar & one of the Red Oak 1x6x10' boards down to 4". Drill pocket holes along the right side of the outside board, along either side of the middle board, and on the left side of the other outside board. Lay the boards out flat in order, add wood glue along the edges and clamp together. Use pocket hole screws to attach boards together, creating a flat surface. Some wood filler and sanding may be needed.
- Assembling the sides:
- After cutting the corner pieces to size, drill a pocket hole on adjacent angles of the top and bottom of each leg. Both pocket holes should be facing the inside of the credenza (you don't want to see any pocket holes once fully assembled).
- Put a dime-sized amount of wood glue on the bottom of the leg and line it up with a corner of the bottom slab you just created. Use pocket hole screws to attach each leg. Repeat for all four legs.
- Once the legs are attached to the corners of the bottom slab, cut 3 pocket holes on either side of the side pieces. Next, insert the side pieces, pocket holes facing the inside of the credenza, and screw in using pocket hole screws.
- Add a dime-sized amount of wood glue to the top of each leg and place the Top slab on to the legs. Secure using pocket hole screws
- Attaching internal dividers:
- Drill pocket holes on the bottom of one side and the top of the other side. Get the dividers in place and secure using pocket hole screws.
- Attaching divider strips:
- Drill two pocket holes on either end of the divider strips. Position them on the face of the credenza and secure using pocket hole screws. Repeat this process for all three strips.
- Creating drawer boxes:
- Apply a small amount of wood glue along the bottom of the back piece. Line up along the back of the bottom piece. Clamp back and bottom piece together to ensure they don't move. Flip the attached pieces over (so that the underside of the bottom piece is facing up). Drill pilot holes along where the bottom and back pieces meet. Use wood screws to secure the back piece to the bottom piece. Before repeating this process for both side pieces, drill two pocket holes on both pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are facing inward when attaching them to the bottom board. Repeat this process for all 6 drawer boxes.
- Attaching drawer slides:
- Use the 1x3 Poplar strips to create a flush surface on the left and right side of the credenza, where you will be attaching the drawer slides. The drawer slides provide you with directions on how to attach them to the frame and drawer box.
- I recommend using the Kreg Drawer Slide Jig to attach the drawer slides, as it made the process MUCH easier and ensured that they were all level. If you don't have one/don't want to purchase one, you can try using scrap wood to hold up the brackets while you attach them. Just make sure you're checking that everything is level as you start screwing it on.
- **helpful hint: since drawer slide positioning can be a tiny bit different for each drawer, I wrote the name of each drawer on the back of each one (ex: Bottom Right, Top Middle, etc.).
- Creating drawer front:
- Make 4 pocket holes on each side piece on the frame (2 on the top and 2 on the bottom). Secure using pocket hole screws.
- You could also create the frames using wood cut at 45 degree angles if you prefer that look. You would just need to adjust the measurements.
- After the frame is assembled, use a small amount of wood filler to cover up the seams. Sand until smooth.
- Attaching rattan:
- Cut rattan to size and attach using a staple gun. I used a regular hand held one with Heavy Duty staples.
- Attaching drawer front to drawer box:
- We found that the easiest way to do this would be to insert your drawer box into the credenza first, make sure your slides are functioning properly. To ensure everything is lined up properly, we completed the right and left sides before attaching the middle drawers.
- Line up your drawer front with the top and side of the credenza, making sure it's level. Clamp in place. Secure by drilling your pocket hole screws into the pocket holes on the inside of the drawer. For the bottom drawers, line the drawer front up with the bottom and the outside of the credenza. For the middle drawers, line up the top front with the top of the credenza and the bottom front with the bottom of the credenza. This method should help you make sure that everything is lined up correctly.
Have questions or comments? Feel free to reach out on Instagram @makingithome_ or you can comment below!